English
One of the most unique advantages to the traveler who rents apartments in Rome is that it, like the Paris of Hemingway, the city seems infinite… Given the variety of styles and the tremendous quantity and quality of archaeological, architectural and artistic material to behold means that even if one spent every trip just exploring one aspect of the city, one would still never run out of things to see.
One particularly intriguing figure, worth a bit of attention, is melancholy architect Francesco Borromini (1599-1667), whose life was cut short, like many a great artist’s, by suicide. This mortal coil has very little place for brilliance, sensitivity and innovation. He was probably one of the most radically theatrical architects Rome had seen, emblematic of a Baroque era defined by the metaphor of World as Theatre.
Should you decide to take this route, do not forget to put on your dancing shoes. If, as said by Walter Pater, all art aspires to the condition of music, all the buildings of Borromini seem to aspire to the condition of dance. This article, in turn, aspires to the condition of the monster mash.
Perhaps even more appropriate than the metaphor of dance, is the image of the ecstatic dervish found in Rumi´s verses. Just consider the amazing San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane (Via del Quirinale 23), whose ellipsoid forms lead to an altered state of consciousness and reasoned derangement of all senses, and following Rimbaud’s desires convert a mere poet in psychic visionary. Breathe in the dramatic architectural illusionism and bewildering grace as you marvel at the frenzy of the exquisite oval dome that appears to be floating in air.
By his own admission, Borromini was proud of the building, and in fact this is where his remains lie, and despite being an early work, is one that perhaps best encapsulates the essence of his art, like the interplay between undulating convex and concave forms which makes the facades of his buildings so dazzlingly dynamic. Take a look at the dome and bell tower of Sant ´Andrea delle Fratte (Via S. Andrea delle Fratte 1) or Sant ´Ivo alla Sapienza (Corso Rinascimento 40) to see the power of these curves for yourself.
A few steps from S. Ivo in full Piazza Navona you will find Sant ´Agnese in Agone, probably Borromini´s best known building. If you are passing through Borromini´s Rome do not forget your dancing shoes.
Paul Oilzum
Translated by: salome antigone
