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If you’re looking for a real Venetian experience, look no further than Campo Santa Margerhita. This bustling Italian courtyard is the social hub of the Dorsoduro district, and at any given time you’re bound to find something going on there.
The square itself isn’t all that impressive; however, it’s a peaceful spot, dotted with a few trees and benches. The long open courtyard is surrounded by cafes, bars, offbeat shops and even some private residences – a number of which date back to the 14th century. The buildings enclose the space, making it feel warm, sheltered and friendly. Perhaps that’s what draws so many people to visit and chat.
Photo: Miles Heller
The great thing about Campo Santa Margherita is that it’s a local hangout more than a tourist attraction. Far from the hawkers and trinket vendors of the big tourist spots, the Campo hosts a weekday market and a largely local clientele.
People show up all throughout the day. Some come to shop for produce, bread, or other daily essentials at the market stands. Some come to browse and window shop at the trendy boutiques. Some come for a leisurely lunch or an afternoon coffee. It’s really the heart of the neighborhood, and you’re sure to find something happening late into the night – even when everything else in Venice is closed down.
Right in the middle of the Campo Santa Margherita, you’ll find a flowing water fountain, engraved with a depiction of a mermaid. Fountains like this are common throughout the city’s campos, and while they’re certainly lovely, they’re more than just decorations. Bring a bottle with you and fill it up at the fountain for some of the freshest drinking water in the city.
Like many plazas and squares throughout Europe, Campo Santa Margherita is named for the church that sits on one end of the courtyard. As you approach the church, you’ll notice a prominent dragon motif. This is a nod to the story of St. Margaret, who was purportedly swallowed by a dragon, but escaped unharmed after drawing the sign of the cross in the dragon’s stomach – causing the dragon to explode. The church closed its doors in 1810; however, the structure has been in use since then, first as a cinema, and now as an auditorium for the local university.
Any time you visit, you’ll experience a unique cross section of the community. Vendors sell bread, cheese and produce; fishmongers sell the catch of the day. Local residents come from all over the district to shop and visit. Students at the nearby university come to chat, study and drink copious amounts of good, strong coffee.
Campo Santa Margherita may not have much in the way of grand attractions, but it’s earthy, down-home beauty makes it one of the top spots to visit in Venice. Perhaps that’s why it has earned the reputation as one of the best squares in the world.
